San Francisco’s Stairways to Havens; Trails of the City
Growing up on the Monterey Bay, we and most people we knew, referred to San Francisco simply as “The City”. A visit here was an exciting prospect; a time to get dressed up, to go shopping, to visit a museum or see a show. And of course, a chance to enjoy a delicious meal in one of San Francisco’s famed restaurants. My family still lives near Santa Cruz, but I have lived for the last two decades in the city, and I have loved every minute of it.
In my business I meet many people from other parts of the country, and some have made comparisons about San Francisco with other cities. Some comments include that Dubai has more innovative new architecture, that New York has a more exciting nightlife, and that Vegas has better shows. To this I have replied that San Francisco “is really just a big village.” The city is actually a collection of small villages, each with its own character and secrets. Tucked away in the dense urban landscape are neighborhoods joined by pedestrian-only lanes and stairways. I would love to share with you a recent walk I took with a friend. Some of these places are hidden gems, and others are well-worn on the tourist trail. All have small pocket gardens and vistas which delight at every turn.
We begin our tour on the verdant stairway neighborhood in Russian Hill known as “Havens Place”.
San Francisco was once known as the “Gateway to the East”, and a Far Eastern aesthetic was incorporated with Western traditions early on. The interest in alternative ways of thought and living allowed the emergence of Eastern disciplines into the city’s culture. The Buddhist sculpture and other references is evidence of that influence here.
Protected from the prevailing winds off the Pacific and the Bay, subtropical tree ferns, palms and various species of bamboo flourish in the sheltered micro-climate.
There are many gardens tucked in and around Havens Place. A leading San Francisco plantswoman, Tova Wiley started the annual plant sale at Strybing Arboretum in 1967.
On my last visit, we were delighted to meet the owner of this lovely garden at the top of Havens place who invited us inside.
A gazebo, dry stonework and colorful perennial plantings re-inforce the “country in the city” quality of this area.
As we retrace our steps, tantalizing glimpses of the city emerge from the dense foliage.
A short jaunt from Havens Place is another pedestrian-only neighborhood, Macondray Lane. Considered the inspiration for the fictional “Barbary Lane” in Armistead Maupin’s Tales of The City, the wooded enclave has had many literary associations. Mark Twain is said to have strolled here while courting the poet, Ina Coolbrith, in the 1860’s.
No. 15-17 Macondray Lane was installed in 1872 after being shipped from the East coast and “around the horn” of South America to San Francisco.
This has to be one of my favorite sights along this lane. I appreciate the contrast between classic architecture represented here by this balustrade and the inexorability of nature.
Above Macondray Lane is the summit of Russian Hill. The entrance to this enchanting enclave is approached by paired ramps with Beaux Arts balustrades. Built in 1915 by Willis Polk (1867-1924), the famed architect was also comissioned by the Livermore family to construct the townhouses shown here.
This house on Florence Place on the Vallejo Crest exhibits the origins of the Bay Area regional tradition in architecture. Contrasting sharply with the Victorian and eclectic wood frame revival styles being built in the city at the time, classical forms such as the portico shown here are incorporated with a shingled downswept facade. I think the Lutyens bench is the perfect period touch, and the newpaper on the steps indicates this structure is enjoyed as a private residence today.
While I was enjoying the view looking southeast to downtown and the Transamerica Pyramid building, I heard the flock of wild parrots which make Russian Hill home pass overhead.
Panoramic views of the city, the bay bridge, Treasure Island and the East Bay hills beyond are enjoyed from the small park on the eastern side of the summit.
Looking south from the park is the achitect’s Willis Polk’s own home and studio. Built in 1892, the shingled structure was a double residence comissioned by the painter, Mrs Virgil Williams. Polk waived his professional fee in exchange for the eastern half of the property. Years ago I visited Polk’s residence on a house tour and was suprised by the different levels which cleverly hugged the hillside. The redwood interior is flooded with light, and this aerie commands close-up views of the downtown skyline with a breathtaking immediacy.
Looking north from the pocket park, luxury pre-war apartment buildings are part of the varied mix of structures which contributes to Russian Hill’s unique urbanity.
In the late 1920’s the legendary French designer Jean Michel Frank created a luxurious modern interior in the penthouse for millionaire Templeton Crocker. Considered one of the masterpieces of 20th century interior design, the penthouse combined modern forms with luxurious materials. Squares of parchment covered the walls and ceiling, whilst modern armchairs in white leather were placed with parsons tables, some fabicated in bronze and others covered in expensive shagreen.
On Green Street known as “The Paris block” a few brightly painted Victorians are similar to the type of structures which compose the city.
The house at 1055 Green Street has a facinating history. Originally built in 1866, the house was spared the flames of the great San Francisco fire of 1906. In 1915, the architect Julia Morgan (architect: Hearst castle) transformed the house into the Italianate villa we see today. Decades later the interiors were re-worked by the late elder statesman of San Francisco design, Anthony Hail. An enfilade of light filled well-proportioned rooms separated by tall double doors housed museum quality Russian, Scandinavian and French Neoclassic antiques. The rather quiet front facade gives little hint as to the true scope of the villa, the interiors of which came to epitomize the very best of the highly sophisticated taste and style of San Francisco.
The villa’s association with the best of design continued with later occupants, being recently featured in Architectural Digest with the work of the designer, James Marzo. It is interesting to note the fabric swatches taped to the windows in the image shown here suggesting a current design project.
Next door is the ”Feusier-Octagon House”, originally built in 1857. The Second Empire mansard roof was added in the 1880’s. Once considered a model design for healthful living, the San Francisco landmark is one of a few octagon houses which populate the city.
Across the street “Engine House #31 was built in 1907 as a firehouse following the San Francisco earthquake and fire.
Leaving Russian Hill and trekking through the colorful Italian North Beach district we come to Telegraph Hill. Coit tower, placed advantageously on its summit, can be admired from various vantage points in the city as we have seen. To San Franciscans and its many visitors, the hill and its tower are seemingly interchangeable.
Departing from the commanding heights of the tower, we make our way to another pedestrian stairway neighborhood, the Filbert steps.
Unlike the other stairways we have traversed, there is nothing “secret” or “hidden ” about these descending walkways. On a recent visit we met people from all over the world enjoying this neighborhood’s ambiance. A friend with me said it was like visiting the United Nations considering the various languages heard. It was a wonderfully “only in San Francisco” kind of experience.
This particular section of the steps has a strong Mediterranean quality. The warm, dry summers and the cool wet winters which characterize the Mediterranean climate model, along with the sheltered position of this location, allows glorious displays of Bouganvilia sp. and other frost tender species to thrive.
Leaving this section of the Filbert steps, we can view an Art Deco apartment building immortalized as the residence of Lauren Bacall and the sanctuary of Humphrey Bogart in the 1947 film noir classic, Dark Passage. I can just imagine the period streetlight amidst swirling fog with the vintage sounds of foghorns.
At night, Coit tower is lit by floodlights. Combined with the atmosphere of evening fog, the tower is a comforting presence.
San Francisco, along with places like Grenwich Village in Manhattan ,were in the last century havens of Bohemia; artists, writers and thinkers who rejected the status quo found a place of great beauty and intellectual ferment here. Two world class universities were established near the city in the late 19th century: The University of California at Berkeley and Stanford. The funding and the rivalry of these two institutions cannot be underestimated in the grounding of the Bay Area as an intellectual center. The development of computer innovations and the internet was naturally born in this free and innovative milieu.
In the 1930’s a remarkable woman named Grace Marchant lived here at Filbert Steps and Napier Lane. Disgusted by the trash and neglect on these hillsides, Grace Marchant personally moved mountains of refuse including old bed springs and household junk, planting trees and flowering shrubs which flourish today.
Today the garden is treasured by the Telegraph Hill residents who have maintained the garden and insured its survival on a difficult, sloping site.
On the bright sunny morning when we recently visited these steps, the aroma of fresh coffee drifted from this terrace.
Here at the intersection of the Filbert Steps and Napier Lane is a good place to sit on the hand-made bench and commune in the sheltered setting. The colorful wild parrots which we heard on Russian hill have made this their primary home and dart among the buildings and branches.
Sitting on the bench we can see the gate to the garden itself.
The gardens are completely organic, and mass plantings of drought tolerant species conserve water and prevent erosion.
It is hot now in the Marchant gardens. The fragrance of rose is heady.
Sitting in this garden at the end of our walk, I was reminded of how much I love living here. The city is not without its share of urban problems, but living here has proved to be as exciting and fun as visits were in my youth. I am still discovering things about the city I call home, where a hidden garden is around every corner.
How funny.
We always think we know our beautiful city by heart but you showed us a lot of little secret places and I feel like going around the city now to find more of those.
Thank you:-)
Comment by nousha.com — 27. July 2008 @ 20:27
Hi Nousha!
Thank you for your comment.Yes! So many fun things to see. Recently I took a boat outside the bay for the first time. I thought the view of the golden gate bridge seen from the ocean side was one of the most incredible things I have done. We went to Pt. Reyes that time. I still hope to see the farallons!
Best Regards,
Philip
Comment by admin — 27. July 2008 @ 20:48
I always know I’m in for a treat when your post pops up. If I had to live in the city, I would choose the house on Florence Place on the Vallejo Crest. My, my, my! I love it. The grey Victorian with enormous hydrangeas in front is fetching. Kudos, Philip, for a fab post.
Comment by Donna — 27. July 2008 @ 23:28
Just a fantastic post! I felt like I was with you on this adventure!
Comment by Patrick Bewley — 27. July 2008 @ 23:48
Hi Donna!
What a lovely thing to say!
The best part of all this is that it is like having friends come with me on this stroll through the city. We had a great time and I am please you came along!
Regards,
Philip
Comment by admin — 28. July 2008 @ 02:02
Hi Patrick!
Comment by admin — 28. July 2008 @ 02:03
Hi, Yes the Perennial gardens will give you years of enjoyment if you plan them right. Take time to do research on a perennial garden so you know what to plant and how to care for your perennials.
Comment by Crevensen — 28. July 2008 @ 07:41
I’ve always wanted to visit SF and your post is the next best thing. Maybe one day I will make it there. Everything is so lush and colorful. I have a question for you about gardening there. Since your summers are so dry, do you have to water often or are the plants just drought tolerant?
Comment by Phillip — 28. July 2008 @ 15:53
Hi Crevensen,
Thanks for your comment. Good advice on perennials.
Regards,
Philip
Comment by admin — 28. July 2008 @ 15:59
Hi Phillip,
Thanks for your comments!
I saw that you recently received some rain. I loved your image of the rose with the raindrops!
Yes, San Francisco only receives rain (hopefully) approx. from Nov. to March. Every rainstorm counts! The snowpack in the high Sierras is very important as we rely on that to feed the resevoirs. Most plantings need irrigation most of the year to thrive. Drought tolerant species have become much more popular. Thoughts on gardens have experienced a sea change in the last few years. Native plants have great interest, as do plants from other Mediterranean climates like parts of Chile, South Africa, Australia.This particular post was more about atmosphere and not would not necessarily “rock the world” of a plantsperson. I do have images I am planning to post on these new drought tolerant gardens soon.
Thanks so much, Phillip for visiting SF online with me!
Best Regards,
Philip
Comment by admin — 28. July 2008 @ 16:41
What a great garden walk! I really enjoyed all your pictures of the great urban gardens in San Francisco. I have never forgotten the 5 days I was there in 1996, when I drove down the West Coast from Seattle to San Diego. I hope I will one day be able to return to this beautiful city. Thursday night I had a dinner guest from SF! When I showed him my old pictures of the city he became sooo homesick. Roses love the climate too in your city!
Comment by Niels — 29. July 2008 @ 01:40
Dear Niels,
What a pleasure to hear from you. I love your blog. It is a place of instruction and information on Roses and the whole of the garden. I will look to your blog as personal inspiration on the best of roses and companion plants. I look forward to discovering facinating rose plants which you are so well imformed.It is a pleasure to know you.
Very Warm Regards,
Philip
Comment by admin — 29. July 2008 @ 03:50
Thank you for the tour of the city. I can tell you are in love with San Francisco.
Jan
Always Growing
Comment by Jan — 29. July 2008 @ 04:22
Thanks Jan!
I love your blog with blue flowers, thinking ahead to fall and summer vines (and so much more)
Visit Jan’s wonderful blog on “Always Growing” !
Yes, I love my home town, but I have not spoken of about it really until now.There is so much more to discover. What fun!
Regards,
Philip
Comment by admin — 29. July 2008 @ 05:57
Oh dear Philip. You make me wonder if I should live in SF rather than up here in rainy Seattle. Maybe a visit will suffice. How lovely and inpiring your tour was. Thank you.
Comment by jean bradbury — 29. July 2008 @ 16:53
What a difference 3,000 miles makes from my North Carolina to this bit of paradise. It makes me miss my days out west when my husband was in the Air Force and we were stationed in Lompoc, California. We drove up and down the coast. San Fran was, like you said, so many villages with each having a personality and beauty all of its own. I bet it was hard to limit the photos as they were all very good. It’s photogenic at every turn. Thank you for the history lesson and a glimpse through your lense.
Comment by Anna — 29. July 2008 @ 21:48
Jean, if you are ever here let us know and we can go look at gardens. I loved the story you told about your families cross-Canadian garden tour, interviewing people as they went. Your new paintings are jewels. I loved the question you asked about meaning in the garden. Thanks for bringing up memories. A teriffic website
http://jeanbradbury.blogspot.com/2008_07_01_archive.html
Pill bugs point of view
Artist Jean Bradbury
Regards,
Philip
Comment by admin — 29. July 2008 @ 23:26
Anna,
The funny thing was I have never used so many photos before. I used them all! Normally I only use a few, but a friend resized all of them for me, so I decided what the heck! hopefully it is not too long. I appreciate anyone who takes the time!
Let us know your tomato recipes you mentioned in your new teriffic blog:
http://woodyandherbaceous.typepad.com/woody_and_herbaceous/
Woody and Herbaceous
best regards,
Philip
Comment by admin — 29. July 2008 @ 23:33
Philip, there is no way you can make a post too long. You appreciate what most of us do and you always present it with some tension and history. Naturally, the gorgeous pictures speak for themselves. As an old Santa Cruzan and frequent visitor to SF myself, The City always presented something new and always exciting.
What’s most noteworthy to me about the plant life in San Fransisco has always been the Tree Ferns. God, I love those things. I planted them all over Santa Cruz after a few visits to the Rhododendron Garden at Golden gate Park. There used to be a bagpiper who practices outdoors there, I’ll never forget that. Wonderful post, Philip and thanks!
Comment by Steve — 30. July 2008 @ 02:57
Steve!
I am so impressed on the posts you have done, combining real word technical know how( like having to create a proper drive with a proper sub strata) and aesthetic sensetivity. Your clients and the blog world is lucky to have you share your expertise. Most people do not want to lay a drive by themselves, but you did show how people can know if it is done properly! invaluable. That combined with your Olmsted bridges and parks, Chinese gardens, dry Westen rock gardens is inspiration.
Yes! I love tree ferns. I have four in my garden. they are awsome as you have said.
The bagpiper is that “only in San Francisco” moment I love. You never know what is around the corner!
http://www.stevesnedeker.com
Best Regards,
Philip
Comment by admin — 30. July 2008 @ 03:32
Oh, Phillip! Nostalgia is sweeping over me. Granted, I’m thinking of the Mission District and Golden Gate Park and the Haight Ashbury and the Avalon Ballroom. Nevertheless, this is a spectacular treat to walk with you in newer terrain and we are very very fortunate to have you as our guide. Fabulous!
Comment by Kathry/plantwhateverbringsyoujoy.com — 30. July 2008 @ 04:24
Not too many pictures at all– I think the more pictures of this quality–the better. You are always interesting and fun to listen to. I enjoyed it very much. Thank you visiting my new site again. I’m glad to back at your house with an old friend.
Comment by Anna — 30. July 2008 @ 04:39
Oh Anna,
Thank you so much.
I just loved Anna Flower Garden Girl. I am so pleased I can visit your new site. I love your wonderful spirit. I am so pleased to call you a friend. lucky me and all who visit your site!
Woody and Herbaceous
Warm Regards to you and your family,
Philip
Comment by admin — 30. July 2008 @ 06:05
Philip, what a treat! I have only been lucky enough to visit San Francisco once. And then did not see much more than Fishermans Wharf, and China town. But it remains in my mind as one of the first places I would like to revisit as soon a possible. I loved the coast, I loved the fog, and am looking forward to seeing it all with new eyes. Thanks for the tour.
Jen
Comment by Jen — 30. July 2008 @ 06:31
Hi Jen, thank you for your comments!!
I enjoyed looking at you wonderful blog. Bootsie is so cute!
Beautiful images and text. it is a treat to visit!
http://muddybootdreams.blogspot.com/
Regards,
Philip
Comment by admin — 31. July 2008 @ 00:52
Hi karthryn!
I am so pleased you “took the tour” with me.
funny,I was just in the mission shopping and I took time for a garden tour there as well! The side streets like that have some interesting ones
Your memories sound fun!
Your positive energy is so infectious! Every time I see a flowerbox in the urban parts of San francisco I think of you. You are a natural storyteller, and make the world around you enchanting.
http://plantwhateverbringsyoujoy.com
Happy birthday to Antonia!
Very Warm Regards,
Philip
Comment by admin — 31. July 2008 @ 01:07
Philip, I do love your blog. Strangely enough, I’ve been to Dubai, and New York, and Las Vegas, but sadly, I’ve never been to San Francisco. Judging from your photographs, however, I think that of the four, it’s the city I’d like most. It’s so beeyootiful. One day…
Comment by Victoria — 31. July 2008 @ 23:44
Have you been to the Vulcan Steps yet? That was near our old apt. in SF and it was always a challenge to find them without a map - very hidden and very cool once you do find them!
OK, I am missing SF so much right now I want to cry…
Thanks for visiting my blog and for all the nice comments!
- Karen
http://greenwalks.wordpress.com
Comment by Karen — 28. August 2008 @ 00:57
Thanks for showing Seattle!
I enjoy your blog!
yes, I will post on those soon. It seems I cannot do more that a post a week. maybe I will do that one next!
Regards,
Philip
Comment by admin — 28. August 2008 @ 01:12
Wow your pictures are fantastic, thanks for sharing them. Ah I miss San Francisco.
Comment by georgie — 13. December 2008 @ 03:10