Roof Gardens II; The Roof Terraces of Rome
The panorama of Rome includes a melange of roof terraces enlivened by rustic pergolas with trailing vines, potted shrubbery and modern antennae; the roofscape is as though the traditional orti (market gardens) of the region has been raised on high above the city. Interspersed in this landscape of tiled roofs and terraces are domes, bell towers, obelisks and monuments, many of which are flood-lit at night.
Rome benefits from a mild Mediterranean climate, and the enjoyment of al fresco living is enhanced by the western breezes off the sea, known in Rome as Er Ponentino. Arriving in the Roman spring and extending into summer, these gentle winds cool the city and its citizens. Romans have for centuries climbed to their rooftop terraces to catch the breeze and enjoy a siesta ( from Latin sexta or sixth hour), partaking of a leisurely midday meal and rest. Er Ponentino and the roof terrace are inextricable to the rythyms of the city. Henry James wrote of spring in Rome: “There are days when the beauty of the climate of Rome alone suffices for happiness.”
Such reverie is forgotten in the days of the Sirocco, where Rome is subjected to the hot dry winds which carry from its origin the gritty bite of the Sahara.
Saint Ambrose (340-397 CE) in his advice to Saint Augustine wrote: “Si fueris Romae, Romano vivito more…” (when you are in Rome live in the Roman style…)
In the many visits I have made to Rome, our best experiences have been when we have heeded this advice ourselves. In the image above the great dome of the Pantheon looms over our roof terrace.The Pantheon, constructed in 125 CE by the Emperor Hadrian is the best preserved of the ancient Roman monuments, and is considered one of the most influential structures in the history of western architecture. I think of the Pantheon as the hub of Rome’s Centro Storico, that historic district of old Rome which incorporates the Piazza di Popolo to the north, the Spanish steps to the East and Piazza Navona and neighborhoods to the West. It is a place of pedestrian only streets and surprising piazzas where the theatre of la passeggiata takes place: Romans of all ages descend from their apartments and roof terraces to stroll in the cool of the evening in the convivial atmosphere.
Russell Page (1906-1985), the influential 20th century garden designer wrote of the Roman roof garden in his book, The Education of A Gardener, “…only in Rome does a miscellaneous pot-grown greenery seem to fit, perhaps because in this hilly town the flowery roof-top of one house is often the terrace of the one above.”
Viewed from the roof terrace Rome’s famed quality of light appears dense with diffused atmosphere; the city basking in an amber luminosity. The chiarascuro of light and shadow on the ochre colored walls gives the city a theatricality as though staged for an opera.
Above the pedestrian-only streets of the Centro Storico, the traffic and noise of Rome seems far away . The cadence of footfall, the passing of a flock of pigeons, low snippets of Italian conversation echo up from the cobbled streets below the terrace. Without automobiles, the sound of the city is like a kind of music; this I felt, was the way Rome sounded for centuries.
Rome has about 400 churches, each possessing at least one if not dozens of bells. This combined with schools, convents and other institutions with a bell or two, means that at nearly all hours of the day there is a bell ringing in Rome. On the roof terrace one can hear them from great distances; bells for the hour, for the quarter and the half, bells for the Angelus, bells that caused Francoise Rabelais to call Rome L’Isle Sonnante, The Ringing Island.
One does not need to rent an apartment with a roof terrace to enjoy this uniquely Roman experience. In the Centro Storico there are a few rooftop restaurants where one can enjoy a Campari and soda or a leisurely meal. I was recently asked to describe my most memorable meal, ever. I immediatly thought of a lunch in Rome shown in the above image. In heat of the afternoon, the city surrounded us in a somnolant haze; the gentle breeze and the distant sound of bells was our accompaniment on a rooftop terrace overlooking the eternal city, Rome.
Philip, this is a beautifully written post. Your words lulled me into a relaxed state as if I were there. Interesting photos (and lovely photos as usual). Thank you for the trip.
Comment by Barbee' — 8. August 2008 @ 02:42
Hi Barbee,
Thanks for reading it your comments!
Regards!!!!
Philip
Comment by admin — 8. August 2008 @ 17:37
Going green with rooftop gardens is not a new thing is it, Philip. Everything old is new again as they say. Your post reminded me of the Clinton Library rooftop garden. You may enjoy Greenest Buildings in the World As always, I am enthralled with your most sophisticated blog.
Comment by Donna — 8. August 2008 @ 18:01
Donna!
I am just crazy about that link you sent!!! That is filled with incredible structures. What a treat! That so much fun, and I appreciate that as well as your kind comments!!!!
Regards,
Philip
Comment by admin — 8. August 2008 @ 19:31
Philip how heavenly. I love roof gardens and have a deck on the roof of my studio (no plants but lots of comfy chairs) where I find myself most evenings these days at sunset and twilight. Large groups (murders?) of crows fly home close to my head, silent for once except for the swoosh of their wings. I gain an extra hour or two of daylight by being up there, long after everyone else is tucked inside their houses. I would love to visit the roof gardens of Rome but your blog is the next best thing.
-Jean
Comment by jean bradbury — 12. August 2008 @ 18:25
Jean,
how delightful that you have a roof terrace above your studio! Your twilight experiences sound wonderful. Most people miss so much when they go inside before dusk!
Thank you for your comments!!!
Regards,
Philip
Comment by admin — 12. August 2008 @ 21:59
All your posts read and look like mini-books.
They are also wish-making for an armchair traveller - oh, I wish I could go there!
I was peering at the picture of an man on a balcony cafe wondering if it is you when I noticed it seems to be supended on wires. It gave a whole new precarious feeling to the notion of ‘living high’.
Lucy
Comment by Lucy Corrander — 14. August 2008 @ 08:04
Hi Lucy!
Yes, I do now see the wires! I wonder what those are? How interesting.
That is not me in the photo. I took the photograph. I wished I had included the Italian word for roof terrace altana in the post.There are more stories I could have included. But, that is ok as I am moving on to write something else!
Thanks so much for your comments, Lucy! I love your blog Pictures just pictures.
Regards,
Philip
Comment by admin — 14. August 2008 @ 15:35
Well, Philip, once again our worlds converge in a funny way. My 18 year old daughter is spending this very week in Venice, then Rome, then on to Athens. She says: “Dad, there are no cars in Venice!”
I can’t wait to hear her impressions of Rome. I thank you for stirring all that up. Philip. As always, your posts are wonderfully written and totally informative. That’s quite an accomplishment. It makes me think maybe you am smart or something.
Comment by steve — 16. August 2008 @ 17:06
Incidentally, those “wires” are small ropes holding the canvas awning in place. Don’t need to make a balloon out of the place!
Comment by steve — 16. August 2008 @ 17:08
Hi Steve,
What a wonderful experience for your daughter.If you talk to her before she goes to Rome, tell her about the cafe in the Chiostro di Bramante. Healthy inexpensive light meals in a stunning setting arpound the cloister. you can eat there without paying for the museum.
http://www.chiostrodelbramante.it/index_caffetteria_new.php?res=1280
Best,
Philip
Comment by admin — 17. August 2008 @ 12:31
Rome really is one of the most beautiful cities in Europe. The roof top gardens
are wonderful, and the Italians really understand ‘La Dolce Vita’. Great post
about seeing Rome from another Angle. Last years some friends of mine went to
mass in Rome and was selected to meet the Pope. They did meet him and had their
pictures taken with - but did not kiss his hands like believing Catholics did.
They also got some very nice rosaries - supposedly very special. Now they have
some pictures of them hanging in their living room, being blessed by the Pope.
Quite funny!!
Comment by Niels — 17. August 2008 @ 22:42
Thanks Niels
Comment by admin — 18. August 2008 @ 00:51
Dear Niels,
I am currently working on a post which is near to home, San Francisco; the city I love.
I do hope you read the next one, as it is near to my heart.
It does take me some time to post, and this one has taken a while, but I hope you see the next one.It is about urban restoration,wildlife and all year flowers in a stunning world class setting!
Very Sincerely,
Philip
Comment by admin — 18. August 2008 @ 00:59
Steve . . . I see what you mean about the ropes holding the canopy in place.
I get gripped by some of Philip’s pictures - and this is one of them.
There is a building which is not a building - a facade - just beyond the railing and so much to look at in a picture which might otherwise simply be seen as a photo of a man holding a glass.
Lucy
Comment by Lucy Corrander — 18. August 2008 @ 21:33
Hi Lucy!
Way in the distance to the upper left is,
National Monument of Victor Emmanuel II, also known as “the typewriter”.
I loved that odd facade,too.The dome beyond was built by Bramante. Inside is the amazing cloister with the cafe I mentioned to Steve for his daughter. This section west of Piazza Navona is my favorite section of Rome. caffe della Pace is here as is Bar del Fico. lots of narrow winding streets, the facades covered in ivy. Enchanting.
Regards,
Philip
Comment by admin — 18. August 2008 @ 23:58
OH my word Philip, this made me want to go wake up my husband and well—you know–help him see the beauty so to speak. This kind of writing and beauty nearly drives me sensually and earthlingly;) insane as you spoke of Sophia—love her! I may change my profession and go live on the roof tops of Rome.
This is an inviting piece of work and the beginning of a good novel. Read it while listening to my Out of Africa Pandora channel on my blog. The music or any like it–really sets the stage. I’m listening to something called Yoga Moods, Zen Garden part 1—and there is water trickling in the background. I can just imagine sitting upon that roof garden restaurant, hearing the sounds from below, and completely floating away with imagination. So beautiful Philip—-more, more more==give us more!!
Comment by Anna — 20. August 2008 @ 06:38
Hi Anna,
Thank you so much for your comments!
I sincerely appreciate them.
now, I know if you had a roof terrace, it would have incredible plant combinations in pots!
I love your current post. The plant combinations are inspiring!
Regards,
Philip
Comment by admin — 20. August 2008 @ 08:04
Thanks for the great information - just bookmarked your website.
Visit us at Garden Flags
Comment by Garden Flags — 15. September 2008 @ 21:51
Ah, Philip…. seeing Rome again is delightful, even though its just photos. I don’t know what magic exists in that city, but the moment i arrived there, years ago, i fell in love. And i had thought that Rome wouild be my least favorite place in Italy! My husband and i both loved it so much that we went back the very next year and rented an apartment for 10 days, right near the Forum. (Understand, we rarely travel because of the difficulty of finding good petsitters for exotic birds…)
I actually feel homesick for Rome, though i’ve only been there twice… would love to see more pictures and hear more stories!
Comment by Anne — 13. November 2008 @ 04:33
Hi Anne,
Yes renting an apartment is the way to go in Rome!
Ten days…that is the ticket. There is so many things to do and see in Rome. Not to mention just hanging out by a fountain, strolling, and having gelato!
You have exotic birds! I will have to look at your blog and see if you mention them. I haved read by others that they become very attached to people and are very companionable. I would love to hear more!
Thank you so much for the comment!
Best regards,
Philip
Comment by admin — 13. November 2008 @ 20:22