Grasses on The Strand
Oh, heck! I thought we would have this beach to ourselves”
This has become a favorite family expression since my aunt Joan first said this on Ten Mile Beach many years ago. We were dragging long canvas sacks, formally U.S. postal bags, now filled with the driftwood we had collected. Far down the coast, obscured by spray from the long rollers off the Pacific,a solitary figure could be seen at the water’s edge. We laughed till our sides hurt at the absurdity of the situation. Even today all one of us has to say is” Oh, heck” to produce a smile. It was not that we were unfriendly, but we had come to love this long stretch of sand and grassy dune for its splendid isolation.
It was here that nature seemed at its most elemental. Rocky coves where pines met the sea gave way to the grand gesture: the expanse of water and sky in the brilliant light, rolling hillocks of sand, their southeasterly progression slowed by beach grass shimmering in the wind.
Not for me are the crowds of a summer’s beach. When November arrives the lonely, windswept coast north and south of San Francisco calls to me. There is a place between twin lighthouses where the shoals part to reveal a curve of sand and grassy dune not unlike the ten mile beach we had enjoyed all those years ago. Elephant seals congregate in the reserve adjacent to this spot. Once when we were hiking this stretch of coast I spied a long tree trunk on its side, probably washed ashore in the last storm. Ah ha! the perfect place to sit with one’s back to the dunes facing the sea. As I approached, one end of the” tree trunk” moved! It was a male elephant seal, a rogue, banished from the nearby colony. We quickly left him to his place in the dunes.
In the lee of the fore-dunes, lagoons fringed with green and gold rushes pool without access to the sea. Driftwood and the occasional saltwater deluge adds a brackish tang. Some winters, a storm coincides with an extreme tide sending waves through the hollows of the dunes to the lagoons resting beyond.
The hollows of the dunes are irresistible for me to lie down in. Sheltered and warm, the rythmic sound of the surf is hypnotic and somnolent. If one lies still long enough, birds and other wildlife will come quite close. I have opened my eyes to see a towhee regarding me next to my face as it scratched about the grass. Here my mind wanders to thoughts of life and of nature; thoughts about grasses surrounding me in the dune hollow and then to grasses in gardens.
In a corner of the Barbro Osher sculpture garden at the de Young Museum in San Francisco, landscape designer and University of California professor Walter Hood evokes the topography of grassy sand dunes which once covered this site.
Designed by the Swiss architects Herzog & d’ Mueron, the de Young museum incorporates a cantilevered canopy over the terrace of the sculpture garden. Clad in perforated and embossed copper panels, the monumentality of the structure required a landscape that speaks to primative essentials. Hood’s grassy dune alludes not only to the original landscape of the park, but to the reductive qualities of the dune landscape itself.
As night falls over the grassy dunes the soothing sound of the surf become a roar. What is seen and unseen in this landscape is like the lighthouse on the near point sending a whiplash of light over the waves and dunes. Without the companionable focus of a driftwood bonfire surrounded by friends, the dune landscape at night is grand and terrible in its immensity.
moonlight -
a sand dune
shifts
Virginia Brady Young, 2002
I say what the heck all the time. I say it with a redneck accent on purpose cause it has more weight that way. I’ve also heard that saying about the beach. Seems like a better place when it’s empty except for your loved ones.
Your dunes look exactly like our dunes here in NC in some areas. It depends on where you are. Our coast changes and we have the Outer Banks which is rugged but beautiful. I guess you could say that about California too. When we lived in Lompoc, the coast was cliffs. You know?
We have laws protecting those grasses and dunes cause it’s a serious erosion issue. One of your pics has a long trail heading out to the beach. I can remember as a child seeing this and then years later seeing it completely gone from a hurricane. So I can appreciate those pictures and their beauty. It’s a memory that never fades. This is another great post!
Comment by Anna — 14. November 2008 @ 05:41
Anna!
Thank you for your comment!
I have never been to the outer banks in North Carolina. I would love for you to share that with me.
I have known people from the eastern part of the country who told me that they missed the seasons back home. Living as I have in Northern California I did not completely understand what they were saying. What I love about visiting your part of the world through your blog, is that I get to see what they were missing. The spectacular fall foliage is something we do not have here. You know that as you lived in CA and AZ.
What I wanted to show here was a personal story, and then dig deeper. I wanted to show the dunes that I loved in all their aspects. The subtle colors of a california coastal winter. It is not as triumphant as the eastern foliage display, but when immersed in it, like sleeping in a winter beach dune, one comes to find its beauty. There is also something overpowering about these dunes. At night they are not cozy or friendly. This place has it own thing going on, its own agenda. The visitor comes to see that this landscape is uninterested in human endeavor. It proceeds on its own terms.
I have also been interested in grasses in the garden. I wanted to show how a contemporary garden in a premier museum used grasses to complement strong architecture. It is always the “big idea”, the attempt at greatness of these museum gardens that eventually find their way into home gardens. Or, at least current thinking of gardens and the natural world.
I would love to hear of your memories as a child at the coast. I thought that the image of the long trail was somhow very nostalgic, and I am glad you picked up on that.
Thanks, Anna
Best regards,
Philip
Comment by admin — 14. November 2008 @ 09:27
Phillip - A hauntingly beautiful post - but then I moved here to live by the sea - and nothing is nicer than a deserted Winter beach.
Also an interesting juxtaposition of the the “dunes” at the de Young Museum.
K
Comment by Karen - An Artists Garden — 14. November 2008 @ 12:26
Hi Philip, you have transported us with this post. We used to vacation at the Outer Banks, Nag’s Head, NC and now go to Kiawah outside of Charleston SC. The changing coast and dunes and the hillocks of grasses are soothing to the psyche and similar to what you have shown us. I love your aunt Joan’s comment along with the vision of driftwood in postal bags. I have always loved driftwood too. We did live in southern California for three years, Fullerton, and would take the kids to what they called the animal beach, below Laguna Beach in a protected wildlife area. It was rarely populated and we loved being the only ones there. There was little beach, mostly rocks and cliffs and plenty for kids and adults to explore, back then anyway, mid eighties. I think the copper sculpture with the grasses is magnificent. I love your use of the term *monumentality* to describe it.
Frances
Comment by Frances — 14. November 2008 @ 13:56
Phillip,
Incredible post Phillip. I felt as if I were in another world. A really lovely world that I want to spend time exploring. Thank you for introducing me to your beach.
As an aside, You have made your beach too attractive, it is good that you didn’t give away the exact location!
Gail
Comment by Gail — 14. November 2008 @ 15:45
Oh, Philip, it’s so true that we want our beaches to ourSELVES! It’s so universal, but hardly spoken of. I spent so many delicious hours on Little River Beach by myself, well, and my first Border Collie, Moxie. I trained her on that beach and those were some of the happiest moments of my life, having that beach at the river’s mouth all to ourselves. I bet Aunt Joan spent plenty of time on that same beach. This post also brings back my many excursions to the Marin headlands. Sigh. Early Marin. This post will probably nudge me into a little Day Trip, Philip. Thanks for the inspiration.And that photo with the green and gold is gorgeous–and the entire post beautifully written.
xoxo
Comment by Kathry/plantwhateverbringsyoujoy.com — 14. November 2008 @ 16:54
Hi Karen!
I love visiting you in Wales! That is the great thing about Blotanical is that I can visit your beautiful part of the world through your blog.
Thank you for your comment!
Best regards,
Philip
Comment by admin — 14. November 2008 @ 19:00
Hi Frances!
I thought of you and your garden of wonderful grasses when I wrote this.
About the mail bags, wasn’t that great!I am so pleased you noticed that. My aunt and grandmother had all of these interesting things. The garden was filled with driftwood treasures. When we would pick up an artistic example, we would say “what a good find!”
Animal beach!
How fun!
Thanks for sharing that!
Best regards,
Philip
Comment by admin — 14. November 2008 @ 19:10
Hi Gail!
Thank you so much for your comment!
You know, I did think I should have said where this was. I decided not too because I wanted this to be about beach dunes anywhere. But! I am happy to share!
This is just below Pigeon Point lighthouse next to Ano Nuevo reserve with the elephant seals. Between San Francisco and Santa Cruz on highway 1.
There are lagoons all along the coast.The one shown is further south just beyond the beach.
Best regards,
Philip
Comment by admin — 14. November 2008 @ 19:18
Kathryn!
Moxie! oh, what a dear name! I bet she had a big smile! and a wagging tail!
Little River! what a perfect spot. It was that area and south that I referred to as “where pines meet the sea”
I am so pleased you liked the green and gold image. That is a favorite. I want to have my little driftwood shack right there, and a kayak to paddle about!
Thank you for your comment!
Warm regards,
Philip
Comment by admin — 14. November 2008 @ 19:33
What a stunning landscape, it looks so quiet and peaceful. I can almost hear the wind whipping through the grasses.
Comment by Phillip — 14. November 2008 @ 22:39
Hi Phillip,
Your post on the empty fall beaches of Florida reminded me of this.
Regards,
Philip
Comment by admin — 14. November 2008 @ 22:46
You made me laugh with your story about your aunt. My family is very anti-social and we go out of our way on holiday to find beaches with few people on. My teenage sons positively shudder at the thought of going to one of the popular beaches which are covered in bodies as soon as the sun comes out - which isnt that often here in the UK
Comment by Helen/patientgardener — 15. November 2008 @ 00:02
What a lovely post! I think i know the elephant seal reserve and beach you’re speaking of, Philip, but i won’t name it lest it become even more well known… but i’ve been there and almost had a similar encouter with one of the bulls!
The grasses are beautiful. Haven’t been to the De Young since we moved away but it looks worth a visit. My favorite spot was the tea house, hope that hasn’t been taken away…
Best regards, Anne
Comment by Anne — 15. November 2008 @ 04:06
Hi Anne!
I love your post on roses. I am looking forward to the rose, “Elle”!
The teahouse and Japanese garden are there. From the sculpture garden you have a borrowed view into it. They have planted Japanese maples before the Japanese garden so it all blends in. Quite wonderful.
A great thing is that you can visit the sculpture garden for free…you do not have to go into the museum first.
Thanks for your comment.
Best regards,
Philip
Comment by admin — 15. November 2008 @ 21:59
I loved this meditative, beautiful post, Phillip. The dunes, as several others have commented, do resemble those of the Outer Banks, but your descriptions make them seem like a whole other world. That lagoon picture is especially nice.
Comment by Pam/Digging — 16. November 2008 @ 16:39
On the day I took the photo of the apple tree (which I posted a little while back) a family trooped by with at least three generations present. It was very dull light and not very warm but they were making the most of it; all very chatty and cheerful. I could hear them advancing. They came round the corner and fell silent. I tried not to look at them but stared at the sea instead. They walked up and down for a bit, then they went away. Then I went away too because the spell had been broken. But I couldn’t say ‘don’t go’ - it wasn’t my place to start with.
Funny these conventions . . . and the feeling that certain places ‘belong’ to us, even when they don’t.
Oh - I’m not an enormous fan of iced tea; only when the weather is VERY hot. But Esther mentioned she once tried crystalising borage flowers to use in cake decoration (as is done with violet petals). They came out soggy so she wasn’t very encouraging when I said I might repeat the experiement.
Lucy
Comment by Lucy Corrander — 16. November 2008 @ 19:43
Hi Pam!
Thank you for your comment
I have not been able to respond until now.We were out all day as it was very warm and clear. We headed up the coast this time to Tomales Bay. We had lunch at Nicks Cove. It was a beautiful late fall afternoon on windy coastal roads. We drove the new(to us) convertible!
I so appreciate your comment, Pam.
Very Best regards,
Philip
Comment by admin — 17. November 2008 @ 04:10
Hi Lucy!
OK… I am going to track down the photo of the apple tree on your site “Pictures just pictures”. Did you see the top image? the one with the grasses and the red band of brush in the background? I liked that one as it reminded me of Pictures just pictures. That was a favotite of mine. The red brush is actually poison oak, which is kind of funny exept if you touch it! No hilarity then!
Borage, perfect in iced tead upside down(the borage branch, not the iced tea). I like it for the bees it attracts.
Esther has a good point, except that she may be confusing this with the Martian variety, so you never really know.
Candied violets…I love stuff like that. What a fun project.
Thank you so much Lucy for your comment.
Very best regards,
Philip
Comment by admin — 17. November 2008 @ 04:19
Oh my… each new picture is even better than the next! But I think that “Dune 02″ is my favorite. Somehow, that one makes me want to take off and explore its tapestry on foot.
Comment by Kim — 18. November 2008 @ 02:13
Hi Kim!
Thank you for your comment!
That is such a great way to describe the dunes, a tapestry. They do invite exploration and a feeling of adventure and discovery.
I enjoyed reading your blog, and say hi to Coco the garden helper for me!
Best regards,
Philip
Comment by admin — 18. November 2008 @ 17:11
Philip ~ what a gift, creatively drawing your fans in with this beautifully captured and scripted post. Thank you.
Comment by joey — 20. November 2008 @ 02:28
Joey!
Thank you so much for that lovely comment. That is so nice of you to say.
I am just about another post, hopefully soon. I have to resize the images.
Thanks you for making my day!
Best regards,
Philip
Comment by admin — 20. November 2008 @ 02:52
I’m not sure what evoked a greater response from me, your captivating photos or your melodious description! You are awesome!
Shirley
Comment by Shirley Bovshow "EdenMaker" — 21. November 2008 @ 05:38
Shirley!
What a nice thing it is to see your comment this morning. I am such a fan of what you do!
Hopefully the next post will be up today.
I appreciate your comment.
Very best regards,
Philip
Comment by admin — 21. November 2008 @ 18:57
I love how you’ve provided the context for landscaping at the de Young. Your photos of the dunes and the dunes themselves are quietly beautiful.
Sometimes I worry that the reductivist tendencies of contemporary landscaping pare things so far that they miss the spirit of the original. When does simplification become oversimplification? But I’ll say that I can still see the dunes in the de Young landscape, if distantly…
James
Comment by lostlandscape — 21. November 2008 @ 19:55
Hi James,
What an interesting comment!
You consider the ideas in gardens. I have asked myself similar questions…and I appreciate your thoughts.
I love your blog. It is original,artistic and perceptive.
Very Best regards,
Philip
Comment by admin — 23. November 2008 @ 22:29
Yes, I like stripes in the landscape.
Lucy
Comment by Lucy Corrander — 30. November 2008 @ 21:17
Hi Philip,
I lived for a long time along the coast of Maine, and although it is ‘rocky’, there was a grassy area above the rocks which overlooked the ocean, right down the street from where I lived. I used to go there and treasure my alone time. I would write poetry, take photos and daydream. I no longer live there, but your post reminded me of those solitary, treasured moments near the ocean. Those were some of my best memories! Jan
Comment by Jan@ThanksFor2Day — 30. November 2008 @ 22:54
Hi Lucy!
Your photography is inspiring to me.
Philip
Comment by admin — 1. December 2008 @ 19:20
Jan!
You captured it perfectly!
Witing, photos,daydreaming…the dunes are the kind of place which inspires creativity.
Thanks so much for your lovely comment!
Philip
Comment by admin — 1. December 2008 @ 19:23